- TextAnother Man
Guest edited by Jo-Ann Furniss, the Summer/Autumn 2020 issue of Another Man features Jake Gyllenhaal, Miuccia Prada, Don McCullin, Sterling Ruby, Rick Owens, and more
This article is taken from the Summer/Autumn 2020 issue of Another Man:
Fronted by Jake Gyllenhaal, the Summer/Autumn 2020 ‘High Art Pop Culture’ issue is dedicated to Jo-Ann Furniss’ heroes – from Miuccia Prada and Don McCullin, to Sterling Ruby and Rick Owens. “[This issue] mainly features people I have worked with, interviewed and known over the years, many of whom are my friends and most of whom are my great heroes – they are the reason I work in magazines and the fashion industry in the first place,” she writes in her introduction to the issue. “All of them I think also say something about the here and now: the 20s. They are all icons of High Art Pop Culture.” The magazine is on sale internationally from Thursday, 2 April and – for the first time in the history of Another Man – available to access digitally, in its entirety and free of charge, from Monday, 6 April. Simply sign up below. Here are 15 reasons to read the issue .
1. A portrait of Jake Gyllenhaal by Alasdair McLellan and Chris Heath. “I think I’ve hidden a lot,” he shares. “Like, ‘I’m gonna hide, and then I’ll create these characters and I’ll tinker in the corner with these ideas...’ I hid in my idea of what I thought an actor was supposed to be, what they’re supposed to do. And I’m kind of like: ‘Fuck it, I’m not like that at all.’” Gyllenhaal was photographed by McLellan and styled by Ellie Grace Cumming in New York, in February of this year.
2. An interview with Miuccia Prada by Furniss, who describes the designer as her “supreme heroine”. This was Mrs Prada’s last interview before it was announced that Raf Simons would be joining her company as co-creative director. “If you do not have an idea in your life, how can you live?” she says to Furniss. “My whole thing, through the Fondazione and Prada, is to make culture attractive. That is, deep down, my goal. If it is not attractive, no one listens. If it is too serious, no one cares and they think it’s boring. It is to make people understand that culture is necessary in your life. It’s not a flower in your jacket, it’s necessary.”
3. A spotlight on the legendary photographer Don McCullin, who shares the stories behind his most personally significant pictures: “it’s quite emotional to talk about, and I don’t particularly like it overflowing when I talk to people,” he says, “but if I wasn’t emotional I wouldn’t capture the honesty in my images”.
4. An interview with artist, Raf Simons collaborator and now designer-in-his-own-right, Sterling Ruby, by Furniss, who travels to his high-walled studio complex in Los Angeles to meet him. “The essence of skateboarding that I liked the most was the kind of vagabond aspect of travel,” he tells her. “That you just kind of mosey around. You had no direction; you just ambled aimlessly until you hit something. I didn’t get why that made me so happy for a long time. But ultimately, as I became an adult, and really understood my desire, it was to be transient, to always be driven. Not to be in this place of stasis where you become ... complacent.”
5. A piece written – and illustrated – by the designer Rick Owens, who recounts a morning watching movies on TV in his grey, crumbling concrete bedroom in Paris; specifically, films starring and produced by the Russian actress Alla Nazimova, found in the basement of his childhood home in Porterville, California.
6. An interview with one of the defining cultural innovators of the 21st century, Bryan Ferry, by Tim Blanks, who is a notorious Roxy Music fan. “I remember when I saw the first Roxy Music album cover in the window of a local record store on King’s Road,” Ferry tells Blanks. “It was the night before the record’s release, I was probably drunk. It was just a fabulous thing. You felt you’d done something really good, really interesting that the man in the street would see. Stop them in their tracks, there in the street, not in an art gallery. To me that was really important.”
7. An audience with Peter Saville, without whom, Furniss says, many people in the creative industries would not exist. Speaking to Furniss, the extraordinarily influential image-maker opens up about Roxy Music, Richard Hamilton and much more.
8. A feature by legendary pop critic Paul Morley, who gives ten possible answers to the question: “What did I think of Fontaines D.C.?” “1. Am I meant to have an opinion? 2. I have some thoughts about Olly Murs and his new hair colour. 3. I’m more of a Masked Singer kind of guy,” read the first three.
9. Another portrait by Alasdair McLellan, this time of Blondey McCoy, who is styled in the A/W20 Prada collection by Olivier Rizzo.
10. An excerpt from Douglas Coupland, Hans Ulrich Obrist and Shumon Basar’s new book, The Extreme Self, which the trio describe as “a new kind of graphic novel about what happened to you from 2016 to right now”. “Since , old binaries have collapsed, and the new binaries tore up your family,” the excerpt reads. “It’s no longer enough to be a moderate. The centre? Just for losers! Extreme makes you more popular, more profitable, more politically powerful. Extreme makes you feel good. Also, feelings now legitimise lies. Because the world’s most talented engineers design algorithms that engineer your emotions.”
11. A shoot by Willy Vanderperre and Olivier Rizzo – or ‘the Belgiques’, as Furniss calls them – that sums up their personal, special fashion history. Plus, an exclusive preview of Vanderperre’s new book of flower sculptures, which will be published later this year.
12. Photographs by the brilliant Mario Sorrenti, who captures Sterling Ruby’s world, with Ruby himself on styling duty and dressing his team in his designs.
13. A portfolio of rare and unseen images from The Cecil Beaton Studio Archive, coinciding with the now sadly closed exhibition of Beaton’s work on display at The National Portrait Gallery, London.
14. A piece on Beaton by Mark Simpson, who charts the photographer’s journey from Bright Young Thing and documenter of London’s lost generation of the 20s to a documenter of a new generation who would lose their lives in the Second World War.
15. A spotlight on the A/W20 1017 Alyx 9SM collection, photographed by Marvin Leuvrey, styled by Lotta Volkova and with art direction from OK-RM – along with an interview with Matthew Williams by Furniss, who says he was always destined to be a significant designer.
The Summer/Autumn 2020 ‘High Art Pop Culture’ issue of Another Man is on sale internationally from Thursday April 2, 2020.
Sign up for a free digital copy below, which is out on Monday, April 6 2020.