Continuing with the nautical theme of their A/W17 show, this season the German brand charted a new course for warmer waters
Staged in New York’s Fulton Market – a former fish market in the Bronx – and overlooking the South Street Seaport with its giant moored sailing ship the ‘Peking’, the scene was set for a sartorial odyssey.
Where the winter wardrobe featured heavy stormproof equipment and batten-down-the-hatches apparel, BOSS S/S18 sees paper-thin leathers and suedes, wafting floor-length coats and a fresh colour palate form a more relaxed, downtime elegance. Titled ‘Summer of Ease’, this collection has the BOSS man in go-with-the-flow travel mode.
As to be expected, the German brand’s expert tailoring was on show but, executed with a light touch, suiting embraced a laid-back, effortless style-over-formality. Cue double-breasted sports jackets, unstructured and unlined in white cottons and slate blue linens, loose-fitting pleated trousers and matching knee-length shorts, worn with leather tennis shoes and go-ashore pumps. A selection of belted multi-pocket jumpsuits offered the ultimate in utilitarian off-duty daywear.
This wave of easiness and low-key luxury rolled through into voluminous outerwear. Oversized brown and navy leather coats, a long powder blue nylon trench and bright red coated cotton version billowed on the runway like sails in the wind. Technical innovation and knit know-how were discreetly displayed with suede woven vests, sleeveless cashmere shirts and, worn under a soft-shouldered navy blazer, a kimono-style wraparound top – maybe a memento from a past passage across the Pacific.
A navy satin bomber covered in shark and flag patches, and embossed latitude and longitude coordinates for the brand’s NY headquarters (40˚ 46 ’N, 73˚ 58 ’W) showcased the maritime narrative to full-effect; elsewhere, there were netting duffel bags with mini-buoy and whistle trinkets, and belts with bungee cord details and silver hook hardware. But the real story of this collection suddenly took shape with the appearance of large hooded cagoules with rope fastening and leather bucket hats, both as fitting on deck as on a 90s dancefloor. Here was the new BOSS character: the raver/sailor, a free spirit on a voyage of self-discovery into the unknown – or, at least, the sunset. Anchors aweigh!
