- PhotographyAmy Gwatkin
Here, speaking in his own words, Craig Green opens up about his Autumn/Winter 2020 collection and what it meant to him to show in Paris – plus, discover the collection in an exclusive photographic series from his collaborator Amy Gwatkin
“It started with the idea of the first time: the first time you have sex or fall in love [and how] you spend the rest of your life chasing that feeling.
“And then it all centered around packaging, like packaging a someone or packaging yourself for other people. The first section of the show was made up of looks that were made from organza mixed with padded tyvek. We thought it was interesting that the leather looked like tyvek and the tyvek looked like leather, unless you touched it in real life you wouldn’t really know the difference. So, there’s that feeling of that idea of things not being the same in reality as they are in a photo.
Craig Green Autumn/Winter 2020
“We kept calling them ‘hoover bag men’ because we thought they looked like strange padded bin bags. The idea of a hoover bag is also interesting because they suck up all the bad things and keep them inside, which sounds very deep but it was more just [that] they looked like hoover bags which I thought was interesting.
“The whole collection was based around that idea of intimacy; intimacy with other people and the way that we are intimate with our clothing. That idea ran through the whole collection.
“Then it moved into the rubber tubing – it’s something they use for like kids catapults and we dyed it and used a smocking technique, which [is] a bit like how they package fruit and went into that idea of packaging again.
“Then we had a ripped-up section with padded outerwear pieces that we thought looked like bin bags. And then at the end we had the sculpture pieces that were meant to kind of look like windows. We wanted it to look like the guys wearing it [were] looking out of a window and seeing their own reflection in the glass so you could kind of see the person, which is another form of putting up a barrier between yourself and the outside world.
“It was all a bit noisy. I really like the idea that you can’t really experience it in a photo – at one point we thought the rustling of the blue ripstop looks was a bit too noisy but then there was something good about that idea of you can hear them coming, they can’t sneak up on you. It’s like the noise is a bit of a warning [laughs].
“It’s a dream for every brand to show in Paris at one stage, but for one reason or another it’s never really felt like the right time to make the move. I was always kind of very cautious of doing it because London is my home and that’s where I studied and where the brand was started. I love showing there as well. But the opportunity to show in Paris came up, we just ran with it. And to show alongside every designer that you’ve ever looked up to is an amazing opportunity and an exciting next step for the brand. I think it’s the plan to show in Paris from now on.”