An exclusive series of Polaroids takes you behind the scenes at Boss’ Spring/Summer 2020 show, staged in Milan this weekend
- TextHannah Tindle
This season, Boss up and left New York and relocated to Milan, where it staged its co-ed collection during the city’s S/S20 fashion week. As was to be expected, the brand put on a show that celebrated contemporary tailoring – after all, regardless of its geographical location, the suit is in Boss’ DNA. In fluid cuts that felt effortlessly modern, but also invoked a spirit of the 1980s – think: Let’s Dance-era David Bowie – Boss’ chief brand officer Ingo Wilts also gave a masterclass in colour. Namely, how to wear it head to toe.
Boss Spring/Summer 2020
Since taking over from Jason Wu in 2018, Wilts has put his own stamp on Boss, injecting colour and softness into the label’s mens- and womenswear (previous collections have included less rigid tailoring, and colours from hot pink to maroon). This season, though, he went all out; exploring the potential of a full colour spectrum. In the case of menswear, which was styled by Another Man’s fashion director Ellie Grace Cumming, the show opened with an entirely white double-breasted suit. And then, as though working on a blank canvas, pieces in buttercream yellow – holdalls and duffel bags as well as board shorts and shirts – gave way to hues of tan, which became full-look firecracker red (the latter on a leather windbreaker and belted trench).
Then, the collection reached a crescendo in blue: powder, cornflower and Yves Klein. Here, Wilts incorporated graphic prints – inspired by the Manhattan he had left behind – before retuning to softer pale turquoise and inky navy. Boss’ S/S20 offering ended as it began, with bleached white. The result was a collection where head-to-toe colour-blocking looked entirely effortless. The key is, as Wilts taught us: keep silhouettes loose, easy and clean, and materials unfussy.