A brief guide to Burberry’s new era
This afternoon was a big moment for British fashion: Riccardo Tisci, formerly of Givenchy, presented his first collection for Burberry, beckoning in a new era for what is arguably the UK’s most important fashion house. Here are five things you need to know about the show and Riccardo Tisci’s Burberry menswear.
He Referenced the House’s Archives
Taking to Instagram just hours before the show, Burberry posted several images from the house’s archive: a sample of Burberry wallpaper from 1998-2000, a silver serving spoon engraved with Thomas Burberry’s unicorn crest from 1874, and a pair of pullovers from around 1940. The message was clear: Tisci had been delving through Burberry’s archives and is committed to respecting its past.
He Split the Menswear into Two Sections
When it came to the show, Tisci split the menswear into two sections: one comprising predominantly of tailoring; and one of more casual, contemporary luxury looks. In the first part, Tisci reworked the iconic Burberry trench and presented his vision for the tailoring arm of the house. (Think of it as business attire with a Tisci twist: suits were belted with chains and in a couple of instances, climbing ropes, while umbrellas were slung across their backs like bows and arrows.) In the second, he took everyday pieces – such as shorts and t-shirts – and elevated them, cutting them in a relaxed and slightly oversized silhouette that we saw him employ in his collections for Givenchy.
He Switched up the Casting
Burberry under Christopher Bailey’s reign became synonymous with a waifish and distinctly British or Londonian type of man, who you’d be more likely to find playing a guitar than pulling some weights. Today though, Tisci switched things up, choosing a bulkier, beefier kind of man to model both sections of the menswear.
He Incorporated the New Logo and Print
The Burberry check has had a rocky road: reviled in the 1990s, revived in the late 2010s and featuring heavily in Bailey’s final collection. Following his appointment, Tisci revealed that he was introducing – or rather reintroducing – a print and logo from the house’s archive, enlisting big-time art director Peter Saville to rework them for the modern age. Today, this logo appeared throughout the collection, splashed onto shirts and stamped onto sports socks.
He Made Some of the Collection Immediately Shoppable
Straight after the show, a portion of the collection titled The B Series became immediately shoppable on Instagram – including a nylon and mesh bomber jacket, a neoprene hoodie, a pair of cotton trackpants, a nylon trench and more.
Watch the show below: