Paris Men’s Fashion Week: The Details at Maison Margiela

There was a lot of anticipation for John Galliano’s first men’s show for Maison Margiela. He hadn’t designed a men’s collection since joining the house in 2014, sticking to couture and ready-to-wear. But Galliano didn’t disappoint, instead delivering one of the standout collections of the season.

First came the runway, on which he’d painted a triangle with a circle in the middle in bright yellow – a design he described as a “glyph” and said “stands for synergy.”

The collection itself incorporated many ideas at the heart of his recent womenswear offerings – namely the “concept of dressing in haste”, which has been informing his cuts. The designer “joins together classic symbols of the men’s wardrobe by applying past and present house ideas into one forward proposal for a new glamour,” the show notes elaborated.

This new glamour translated to Savile Row-style tailoring – such as military overcoats and trench coats, as well as suits – rendered in red, yellow (the same shade as the runway) and Yves Klein blue. Worn with swimming caps and mad-looking post-lobotomy bandages, these pieces were disrupted by raw edges and transparent PVC.

There were also a couple of classic Margielaisms apparent throughout the collection. Several looks came in white, just like Margiela’s legendary chemises, and one bomber jacket which looked like it had been painted in the tone – as the house’s workers would do with their desks. Galliano also recreated Margiela’s iconic Tabi boot for men.

This new glamour was a compelling one that left us wanting more.