Style & Grooming

How to Get Black Tie Right

Another Man presents a guide to black tie, helping you navigate formal occasions with style

More formal than business attire and less formal than white tie, black tie – or the tuxedo, as it’s known in the States – was originally devised in the Victorian period as a more casual alternative to tails. It’s one of the most traditional modes of dress and yet despite being widely worn, it’s often not executed properly. This usually boils down to the details – the wrong kind of tie, collar or shoe et cetra. So, here, in the midst of party season, we present a short guide to getting black tie right.

1. Wear a bow tie, not a tie

The term ‘black tie’ is actually quite deceptive if you think about it, because you’re not supposed to wear an actual black tie, but a bow tie – preferably a black one (unless you’re going to a white tie event, in which case wear a white one). Some people look down on pre-made bow ties but you can actually buy some nice and crucially, convincing, ones that are virtually unclockable to the untrained eye.

2. Wear a white turn down collar shirt

With black tie, you’re shirt should always be white with a turn down collar (again, unless you’re going to a white tie event, in which case it should be with a wing collar. And, stating the obvious here, but make sure your shirt is clean and freshly ironed.

3. With the suit, get the fit right

Fit is crucial. Essentially, it’s about keeping is classic: not too baggy, not too skinny; no ankle-swingers if that’s how you usually wear your trousers; and make sure your cuffs cover your wrists completely.

4. Wear black Oxford dress shoes

Traditionally, the correct shoes to wear with black tie are black Oxford dress shoes without broguing. You can probably get away with different models though, as long as they are a) black, b) leather and c) polished.

5. Keep accessories to a minimum

When it comes to accessorising, keep it classic. Wear a cumberbund if you fancy it but apart from that, leave it there. Of course the exception to this rule is if you’re dressing in Scottish black tie, in which case a kilt, silk flashes, a dress sporran (decorative pouch worn at the front of the kilt) with silver chain, and a black, silver-mounted sgian dubh (a small ornamental knife tucked into the kilt hose) are not only acceptable but recommended.

Bonus: Leave the bottom button of your jacket undone

It’s just one of those things you’re supposed to do.

Hair Sophie Anderson; Grooming Rachel Singer-Clark; Casting Troy Fearne at Troy Casting; Models Rowan at Elite, Benjamin at Supa; Production Jo Evendon.